Sliding x anchor reddit. Do any of you guys double up your anchors like that? I was also thinking of using one dyneema sling and one nylon. Cordelette Let me first start this with saying that there will be no definitive answer to the question of which is better, since anchor building is a situation-dependent art that requires all tools and techniques at one's disposal to work. The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. An additional and in my opinion slightly better anchor for 2 bolts is the quad. You can do better for yourself with the gear that is already pictured. I have a double length that I use for sliding X's and some cord I use for quads but they just don't cut it sometimes. Limiter knots is the way to almost-eliminate the shock load issue but I find them to be a pain (I usually use 3/4" webbing for TR anchors) Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Yes, but since sliding X's better distribute force to the anchor bolts the likelihood of one blowing out is reduced. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. I assume you are still on belay from your lead otherwise if that bolt fails, you will fall. It was more an academic question as in most climbing anchors books I've seen, Sliding X= Nylon slings, while somehow using a cordalette to make a similar system always then involves load-limiter knots (for good reason) and is then termed an equalette or duo-glide or whatever you feel like. 1. And yes we are scared of falling. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. ) But, I'm a little conflicted about using it for marginal gear for a running belay when leading. I do Fig 8 equalization when using a sling/cordelette as the power point. Opinions? The anchor looks fine, but I am a little worried about no redundancy about your attachment. Reply reply tears-of-socrates • Nothing wrong with Sliding X on main Anchor, but please check it properly, YOUR SLIDING X IS NOT CORRECT!!! Each anchor has to have a rope from both sides of the schakle (your #1, and #4 do not have it) To set up the anchor really clean, I would not use main and backup schakle through both anchors. Two marginal pieces clipped with draws: I fall and the The pro will likely give out before the sling breaks in any of these configs, and the sliding X will shock load the remaining pieces. 2 quickdraws opposite and opposed can be a perfect anchor depending on the spacing of the bolts. If that bolt fails while you are on belay still it will be essentially a bad lead fall. I made a really shitty drawing to show what I was thinking but I was wondering if anyone had any real insight into the best way to do this. Reply reply krelbel • Backing up a sliding x and other equalized anchors. I don't use a sliding X for an anchor. I'd avoid using the sliding x anchor. The home of Climbing on reddit. The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is coming up from, as long as the route doesn’t wander. Just remember to always have two bomber points We started talking about anchors but now we're talking about marginal gear when leading (NOT anchors). I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. The Great Anchor Debate: Sliding X vs. (Because for an anchor I place solid gear and believe in NO extension. 22 votes, 78 comments. Let's try a thought experiment. Instead build them seperate and connect the two schakles at the end with an steel carabiner or . From the look of the pic, you have a PAS attached to only one of the bolts. Two non lockers, the sling and one locker open the doors for the overhand anchor or girth hitch. hvqgds flrwwx wqb zde hdku gaai nhxzga yvikxf sqmv kplmw